Einer Reise Nach Berlin

Schwarzfahren. German for riding without a ticket. How did I learn this word? My host in Berlin confidently recommended going ‘schwarzfahren’ on my first evening in the city (not validating the day pass I’d just bought) because its tube network does not have any turnstiles and apparently tickets are rarely checked – especially after peak hours. And so I thrillingly ‘rode black’ two stations for one of the cheapest good meals I’ve had ever since I left India. We paid some five odd euros for two large slices of pizza. That’s almost £3.5! I get nothing better than a cold Tesco sandwich for that kind of money. Certainly not a fresh, warm, oozing-with-cheese pizza. That day I realised that London is actually quite expensive. But then so is the UAE because prices are fairly comparable between the two. Or maybe it’s just Berlin which is amazingly affordable. I am told the rent there is also quite incredibly low.

U-bahn, the underground

I always knew that Germany is not one of the English-friendly countries but I never imagined things could be unsettlingly difficult to decode. The first taxi ride in the city - from the airport - lasted about 20 minutes and I did not spot even five words of English anywhere. The driver didn’t speak any English either and within the first 30 seconds we were down to good ol’ hand gesturing  to communicate. 

English! :D

Google was obviously the biggest help for navigating routes but it failed me, dramatically enough, when it stopped at giving S-bahn numbers without telling me which platforms to find my trains at. It doesn’t sound like a big deal – how many platforms would a standard local city station have, you’d ask. I happened to be at Hauptbahnhof, one of the biggest stations I’ve ever seen, the first time that I got lost. It has U-bahn (underground), S-bahn (street level), intercity and inter-country trains running every second. It also has the best veggie McDonald’s burger outside of India but I’ll come back to that later. When I had that burger I was somewhere between trying to miraculously decode German signage and giving up any hope of getting to my destination. The station literally had nothing in English except details of the train that went to the airport (thoughtful). The only other familiar word was Budapest – I spotted it on a train that I definitely didn’t want to take. After about 25-30 minutes of going up and down three levels I finally figured that the only way to get anywhere in the city is to ask a real person. Most of them know ‘a little bit’ of English. It’s usually enough to combine with what Google says about finding something. 

Hauptbahnhof - at the platform it took me forever to find

During one of the walks when I was lost

The other highlight of this language barrier was my interaction with a nurse at a hospital that I was visiting. T had been away for his surgery a little too long. So I went to enquire at the nurses’ station on his side of the floor. Again, little to no English. 

“Urologi?”

“Erm…kidney...kidney procedure”

“Urologi? Friend? Urologi?” (this time with hands gesturing all over the organ system)

Clearly this wasn’t working. We moved straight to finding his name in the system. And after about 5-7 minutes of exchanging confused looks and words incomprehensible for the other, she told me he was still away for his operation. Not the most helpful outcome, but the lady was way more patient and polite than I expected. By Indian AND by London standards.

When I wasn’t at the hospital I was busy checking off tourist-y spots in the city. I think I managed to cover a fair deal even though the afternoon heat was quite draining. The Berlin Wall Memorial was like ghar ki murgi because it was next door to where I was staying. I passed by it every time I stepped out so didn’t care much to spend time there. The East Side Gallery (that’s where I wanted to go from Hauptbahnhof) blew my mind! From a distance it looked like a regular wall with some graffiti. But every mural on this long wall spoke volumes about the skill and thought that must have gone into it. I obviously went crazy with my camera. The river, Spree that passes along the wall was a nice addition to the otherwise ordinary area. T had told me I wouldn’t spend more than 30-45 minutes there, but I ended up being there for nearly two hours and left only because it got a little late in the night. In any case finding the right public transport seemed to take longer than the actual rides.

The next day I started with a walk around Gendarmenmarkt, Franz Friedrichstadtkirche and Konzerthaus Berlin. It’s basically a neoclassical square in central Berlin with a royal (can I use that term to reference things outside the UK?) concert hall along with French and German cathedrals on either side. The historic structures were bombed during World War II but they were rebuilt and stand tall today in all their imposing glory. 

Gendarmenmarkt Square - The first time that I used the panorama feature on my phone 

I also visited what is known to be one of Berlin’s best chocolatiers, Fassbender & Rausch. The store was admittedly mind-boggling. Everything was made of chocolate – from huge landmark buildings to the city’s mascot to a million different flavours of truffles and pralines and chocolate bars – it was crazy! It felt like a got a sugar rush just by looking at all the chocolate. I got a pack of 12 different chocolates for home but I have to say they were nothing better than ordinary. Each flavour, each chocolate let me down. Gah.

THIS IS CHOCOLATE! :O

And this too!

After a long pit stop for food, drinks and hope for the sun to take it easy, I started towards the Brandenburg Gate and the German parliament building, Reichstag. The Reichstag was impressive. Well, I do have a weakness for perfectly symmetrical buildings and this one didn’t fail to amaze either.

Saw that chocolate figure on top? Here's the real one in selfie mode. Perils of travelling alone. 

When Fanta was a different orange!

The other thing that was extremely fascinating was the Ampelmann. Initially I thought it was just me spotting the cuteness in the city’s pedestrian stop lights. But soon I figured that it has a long history from before the integration of East and West Germany. They have dedicated Ampelmann stores with all kinds of merchandise that you can imagine. I didn’t particularly like anything to buy at that point, but in retrospect, I want an Ampelmann souvenir. Just look at it! How often do you see any character in such mundane things?

I didn’t spend much time in Berlin but I definitely think the city has a lot of character. It’s not one of those cities that I can imagine falling instantly in love with; everything about it grew on me gradually. The streets, the people, the music, the history – all very subtle, but charming nonetheless. I am sure it’s a completely different experience for someone who knows the language, but for a couple of days one can make do with getting lost and exploring Berlin at leisure.

Oh, and the city has a mascot which reflects nothing of its history or culture. Or maybe it does. The Berlin Bear is all over the city in various forms and colours. Here's one in all its chocolatey glory!

PS: Berlin’s city airport, Tegel is so small and so well located that I can never imagine anyone missing a flight from there. Hurry up and experience it before they close it down for the new one that’s on its way.

27

The last few months have drained all the energy out of me. Work doesn’t seem to end. Negativity seems to have grown. There isn’t enough mind space to even control the mind. Mother pointed out that I have stopped talking. And while all this goes on, one day I got a craving to see the sea. Given the extent to which I have spoiled myself, I had to address that temptation. It is incredible how I let myself believe that a temptation is a need. It has its pros and cons. But I do not mind that mixed bag at all. So began the process of getting to the sea. The birthday present. 

After my trips to Odisha and Pondicherry I concluded that I like the west coast more than the east. The beaches and sand quality are better. But my much anticipated trip along the Konkan in the monsoons could not work out this year. So I sought something shorter. Contemplated going to Ganpatipule, but gave up because my planned dates clashed with the big Ganesh festivities. That left me with Goa. There is something very mass-ish about Goa that makes me want to stay away from it. Cheap, I know. Especially given that I have discovered that it does have more to offer beyond the Baga-Calangute madness. But that discovery happened only after I booked my tickets. 

Direct tickets from Delhi were obscenely expensive. So I wasted a few days just thinking whether I am willing to spend so much money on it. It doesn’t help to be aware that you can do a longer, more beautiful, more satisfying trip to a Ladakh with a little more money. I tried different combinations and figured that getting there through Pune could be significantly cheaper. And there is enough history (mine) in Pune for me to easily kill some time there. But the paucity of time meant I couldn’t take that detour both ways. 

I finally made a decision. It was going to be Delhi-Pune-Goa-Delhi. But before I booked my tickets I messaged Karan asking if he is willing to spend some time with me in Pune. We had had a few discussions in the recent past about how a trip was due but nothing had worked out. Clearly, he is busier than me. So I thought at least one Saturday could be put to good use. I don’t know whether he felt that he’d miss an opportunity if he didn’t come with me or just that he shouldn’t let me go alone that he offered to come along despite his restraining order.

Yes, I was going solo this time. Finally. Truly solo. I had tried getting a few people along but that wasn’t working out and the sea was really waiting for me. Karan’s offer was exciting. We had the successful 2011 road trip to Wayanad as evidence. So, suddenly I had a Pune-Goa-Pune road trip happening. ‘A’ level excitement! I booked my Pune flights and gave up on all the research I was undertaking. With Karan along, there was no need to plan for pit stops or hotels or absolutely anything else. 

That lasted a week. On the 3rd he told me it won’t work out. Broke my heart. And his. He had even got his car serviced. And I was back to going solo. Cost me a little to change flights and restart the research. But I managed it. I was not sure how I felt though - whether I was disappointed that he wasn’t coming or glad that I could finally take a trip alone. Nevertheless, I started from Delhi on the morning of 7th, as scheduled. 

Landing in Pune filled my heart with happiness. I never thought it could feel so good to be back there, but I was truly beaming while walking away from the aircraft. There was magic in the air. Karan was waiting outside for me. It was the first time I was being received in that city. Felt good. 

We went to Aromas in KP for breakfast. Fairly fancy place. It has replaced the much-loved Burger King. I had no clue – I was visiting after almost three years. I learned that the city now has big malls too. Back then, Central used to be the largest. Seems funny now. Anyway. We spent a few hours there and then headed for lunch. Yes, there wasn’t much to do beyond eating, drinking and talking. The Irish House had a warm ambience and good food. We went through my school scrapbooks, reminisced, laughed and gossiped through the afternoon. It was then time for Shudh Desi Romance. I liked the movie barring the end. Karan hated it. Typical. But we both liked the music. 

After some more inane conversations and a strangely lost 10 minutes in the parking, we rushed to catch my bus to Goa. 

I have known Karan for 15 years. Now we meet once every year or two. After spending those 12 hours with him I seemed to have re-developed that attachment and didn’t feel like leaving. Yes, I was disappointed that he wasn’t coming along. 

So began the solo sojourn. I have done innumerable solo plane, train and bus journeys, but never travelled by bus alone at night. So I chose a semi-sleeper bus over a sleeper one simply so I stay more in control. It was a slow bus and stopped on multiple occasions. I took one break close to midnight and stayed put in my seat the rest of the time. My co-passenger was another single girl. Smelly, but harmless. 

I was told to get off at Mapusa, the biggest hub in north Goa. I was to get a taxi from there for my hotel in Ashwem. Since I had no clue how many stops the bus would have before Mapusa, I stayed up for two hours trying to comprehend the conductor’s language every time he uttered a station’s name. But Mapusa is so big you cannot miss it. I got off at around 9 am and headed straight for the pre-paid taxi stand across the street.

The decision to stay at Ashwem was a result of a LOT of research for a non-commercial, non-rocky beach that was also safe and had good options to stay. I had booked myself at the pricey La Cabana because there weren’t too many places open yet and I was tired of figuring an affordable and safe place on the beach. Too many filters! I learned early that being safe on a solo trip comes at a cost. So I gave up the budgetary inhibitions and stopped bothering about what I could really do by saving 5-6K. 

Taxi ride with open windows = wind in the hair! :D :D It made me forget about the long and painful bus journey. We reached Ashwem in about 40 minutes. I made the driver wait while I went and checked my room. Hold on. My sea-facing villa! My happiness exchange was with the driver when I walked back to hand him the money. He saw my face and knew that I was more than satisfied with what I had seen. The sea! Ufff!! What living in hinterland can do to you!

The villa :D

View from the room

The restaurant was even closer to the beach. I had a quick bite, dumped my bags, and went straight out on to the beach. As I walked away from the hotel I noticed that there really wasn’t anyone else there. The only people I saw were the other guests at the hotel. Some dogs started walking with me. The few cafes and restaurants I had read about online were all shut. And that made absolutely no difference to me. I just smiled and kept walking. Then came my ‘tu hi re’ moment! Know that Rahman-Hariharan number with Arvind? That! There was a massive rock going at least 50 metres into the sea asking to be climbed. And once there, how could I not have sung the song! Who cares about the ‘tu’; movie moments are not meant to be logical. 

From my Tu Hi Re rock

There are some people who cared and wanted regular updates from me. So I updated Karan, PK and Smita with the status and got back to the hotel. Slept. Relaxed. And then started walking out the hotel on the street. It was as aimless as it could get! Some shady people made some shady comments but fortunately, or unfortunately that matters only so much. I walked so much that I tired myself out even before I started walking back. To top it I lost my way. And 3.5 hours & at least 10 kms later I was home! In good time to hit the beach. But it was a day of bad decisions. My feet were so tired that I chose not to go towards the flat area that I had seen in the morning. I stayed close to the hotel which also had some rocks nearby. A big wave came and took me far. It was unnerving. I fought in panic, but not knowing how to swim can only help achieve so much in such a case. There were some people around but I don’t think anyone noticed. I was far above the ground. Even thinking about it is unsettling. The water did throw me back, but before I could make it far, I hit the rocks and lost balance again. And again I was floating. This time with bruises and a spasm-ing back. Came back to my room breathless and upset. One phone call and a breakdown also happened. 

But I recovered in good time. The remnants of a setting sun and my camera were distracting enough. I then ordered some food and wine and settled comfortably in front of the TV. 

During the walk earlier in the day

During the walk earlier in the day

Yes, spent a lot of money on this!

I woke up at leisure next morning, and again went for a walk on the beach. This time with the camera! The dogs recognized me. The waves scared me a little and I stayed away. But I did go back to that big rock and parked myself on it for a few hours. 

I did brave up to go for a dip in the evening. But this time to the flat lands a few hundred feet away. I slowly got comfortable and in some time was lying flat on my back. It was perfect. There were only two other people around. Some dogs were playing in the distance. The sea was calm. It touched me with ease, I tried to push work and other thoughts away, and those were my few moments of ultimate peace. 1-0-0 per cent, by the book, relaxation. 

I got good sleep that night. Next day was packed with plans for my camera. Waves, churches, ruins, I covered it all! Old Goa was a complete delight. I had called Raju, the driver from day 1 to show me around and for the final drop at the airport. He was my expression of enthusiasm. Kind of made up for all the quiet hours. He took me to a shady drivers’ restaurant for lunch. Hotel Vilsha! It felt funny eating there, but the amusement factor was so high that I happily added it to my list of adventures.

Got someone to click one for the record

The weather on this final day was so perfect that I managed to combat the work-related anxiety to a fair extent. 

I felt vulnerable and overwhelmed often enough through these four days. I was also upset about not finding some solutions that I wished to. But I am immensely pleased with myself for having done this. It started with going for movies alone. It makes one feel empowered, in control, or how Smita puts it – emancipated. I won’t lie – sometimes I do yearn for company, but that really isn’t reason enough to not do what I wish to. Nothing feels better than listening to your heart and doing exactly what it wants. It is only the heart that can take you through the best experiences in life. 

Cheers!